I have been living here in the Kanawha Valley since 1982, but I have not heard of the Gino’s “Pubwich” until earlier today. Shame on me…

I guess I am also somewhat of a food snob as well as a beer snob, especially when it comes to anything with an Italian overtone. This is mainly brought on by marriage, since my wife is a thoroughbred Italian (and a Leonoro of the spaghetti house fame.) I am not allowed to be impressed (nor am I, really) with quasi-Italian fare like Fazio’s and especially Gino’s. I know many of you will try to take me on as to my inclusion of Fazio’s in this essay; but all I can say to you from my very heart is that I am secure in the fact that each and every night since 1915 — which is when Leonoro’s opened — there has been a Leonoro making the sauce and cooking the spaghetti in the kitchen; and the recipe hasn’t changed since. Nuff said…

How did I get tangled in the Pubwich web? I received a coupon in the mail earlier today (I guess those things really work!). My long time brewing buddy, Tim, was over at the house while I was opening the mail. I could not help but to be suckered in on the name “Pubwich.” He immediately came back to me with the description of what it was, how it was made and how good it was. He definitely piqued my interest. We started a discussion about the proper beer to drink with the Pubwich.We decided a Dortmunder or Kolsch type beer could be ideal. That’s was it, I had to have one!

My daughter and I were left to fend for ourselves at dinner one recent evening. We decided I would go down to Leonoro’s and get her a spaghetti and meatballs (gratis of course — thanks, bro). I would go across the street to get a Pubwich at Gino’s, since something called a Pubwich could not possibly claim to be Italian. So, it was okay to try it.

I walked into the Gino’s on Ruffner and Washington and anxiously ordered my first Pubwich To-Go (with coupon in hand). They asked if I wanted mayo and onions– I did. I took the Pubwich home and opened the pizza box it came in. A Pubwich is basically a melted ham and cheese sandwich served on a halved Gino’s pizza crust. The toppings are shredded lettuce and sliced tomato, added just before they close it up with pizza crust. I must say: the concept is good. The melted ham and cheese seem at home on the pizza crust. It’s like a pizza crust quesadilla…..
My particular order could have featured way less mayo and more toasting of the crust. At home, I paired it with a Kolschbier as part of the plan, but I think Dortmunder is the right beer, because it holds up better with the ham. Good, locally available dortmunder beers are Great Lakes Dortmunder Gold or Penn Gold. The sandwich would also pair pretty well with just about any medium-bodied, malty, light-to-amber lager or ale, as long as it is not too bitter.

All I can say is that if just slightly better done, the Pubwich could go all the way to being a true natural food to pair with beer; but do go at it with a Dortmunder in hand…

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