Surely By now, you know that “festbier” is here? Huh? You know, the beer that’s labeled “Oktoberfest”? That stuff! Kroger probably already has it stacked up in the aisle, unrefrigerated, becoming oxidized and maybe even “light struck” (which means it’s going to taste skunky). Almost every brewery, macro or micro, has taken a shot at making the traditional German lager that we has come to be known as Oktoberfest beer. What is “Oktoberfest beer”? Which one should I buy and drink? I will attempt to answer this perennial seasonal question…

First of all, to label this type of beer only as “Oktoberfest” ignores the fact that this type of malty German/Austrian lager is brewed year round, and is consumed all the time — but especially during festivals. The actual beer is generally referred to as Marzen (for March, as this was historically the month it was brewed before being aged in caves over the summer) or “festbier,” meaning of course, “festival beer.” Why the differentiation? Well, everyday German beer is usually a lighter style helles lager, pils or more recently weissbier (which has grown to be quite popular). Festbier is typically maltier, stronger and more filling and is usually only savored year-round by the more enthusiastic (and rotund) beer drinker. Like myself, say.

According to BJCP style guidelines (used for judging homebrewing competitions), “festbier” owns the category of “European Amber Lager,” which is a testament to this beer’s ubiquity; as a matter of fact there are even Mexican versions of this beer that are pretty darn good.

Usually, anything labeled a Vienna Lager, Marzen beer or even just amber lager, falls into this category. There are a few key flavor profile descriptors that best fit the authentic German/Austrian versions, however. Festbier should range in color from deep amber to a slight orange/brown color, with a firm lacy head. They should be malty, but not cloyingly sweet. They should not exhibit a roasted character, but may have some light toastiness. They should have a balanced bitterness and little hop flavor and aroma. They should have a clean “lager” flavor, meaning fruity flavors like apple, plum or pear should not be evident. These beers are moderately strong (up to 6.5% ABV), but they should “go down easy”. Remember, these are the same beers that are served 1 liter at a time at Oktoberfest, so it better make for easy drinking!

There are a few good versions of “festbier” available locally. Samuel Adams Oktoberfest varies a bit from year to year (I have not had v.2007). The beer is usually spot-on, but some years they get a little too-generous with the finishing hops. Of course, you can’t go wrong with Spaten, Paulaner, Ayinger, or Hacker-Pschorr (say it, don’t spray it!), for these are a few of the guys that sell 14 million liters of Festbier beer each year in Munich! While comparing these beers, take note of the rare exception to German conformity; you will notice some variation, mostly in the presentation of color and sweetness. Michelob Oktoberfest has also been spotted at Kroger, but I have never been brave enough to buy a whole six-pack of the stuff. It may be great; who knows? Maybe one of you adventurous readers can try it and leave a comment…

Other Micro/Craft versions usually available are Harpoon Oktoberfest (A bit too hoppy based on 2006’s). Another perennially hoppy one is Sierra-Nevada Oktoberfest. Great Lakes brew their amber lager called Elliot Ness year-round and it’s usually available locally. Even though Elliot Ness is a world-class Amber lager, the brewery sees fit to brew a special Oktoberfest beer that is slightly less hoppy. Penn Brewery from Pittsburgh always brews very traditional German beers, I have not had the Penn Oktoberfest in a few years, but I remember it to be a very good beer. Hopefully we will have access to this brew now that someone is distributing the Penn products in Charleston. Mexico also chimes in with a year-round favorite; Negra-Modelo is a very good amber lager. This beer in particular is less malty than its European -style counterparts to make it more quaffable in the warmer climate.

BEER TIP No. 1: If you are forced to buy your beer from the un-refrigerated aisle, make sure you select a six-pack that has not been sitting out in the light. You might have to tear into a new case but it’s worth the extra effort and the dirty looks you may get from the stocking clerk. Just tell them that you are an aspiring beer snob and it’s your right to drink non-skunky beer (you could even fib a little and say it’s covered in the 21st Amendment), all the while, the precariously balanced pyramid of beer cases comes crashing to the ground behind you. (”Clean-up on aisle 3!”) That’ll teach ‘em to stack warm beer in the aisle!

BEER TIP No. 2: “Festbier” lagers should always be served in a non-frosted glass (like all beers!), at a temperature no colder than 45 degrees. Festbier always pairs well with traditional Bavarian fare like bratwurst or any-wurst, soft pretzels, roasted (caramelized) chicken, but it also does a great job with traditional pizza! Negra-Modelo is a natural fit with 1- or 2-alarm Mexican food; for 3 alarm +, seek out an American pale ale or IPA and then Rolaids… Ein Prosit!

Update From Rich: I had the chance to taste the Penn Oktoberfest at Lola’s… Yummy beer! I really like the complex maltiness finished off with just enough bitterness for balance. Give this one a try!

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