The “Good Book” says “to everything there is a season.” So when the cold weather hits, I break out my stash of wintry beer delights. What if you don’t have such a stash? Never fear, I will guide through the maze of beer cases that are sitting out in the aisle at the grocery store, many claiming to be the right beer for those long wintry nights.

One thing to remember is that most “winter beers” labeled as such are only brewed seasonally and are often flavored with something besides hops; usually it’s spices similar to those used in eggnog or wassail. I tend to stay away from these beers just because of my childhood aversion to spiced jellybeans; you know- the ones that are usually blue or white? One bite of a spiced jellybean when I was a kid could send me running to pray to the porcelain god. As an adult, I somehow shook off my total dislike and can tolerate nutmeg and clove and even allspice.

I hold no beer-snob grudge against spiced winter beers; they are just not my cup of tea. I tend to go for un-spiced beers that are big, bold and dark, during the winter months. These “big beers” need to be tasted, not gulped. They will deliver maximum flavor if served no colder than 60 degrees and in snifter type glassware. Here are a few non-spiced or very-lightly spiced picks that I recommend:

Traquair House Ale (above) - This Scotch Ale is sold in wee-little bottles and is really one of my faves. It is brewed in small batches on a very old brewing system that was discovered in an outbuilding of an old mansion in Scotland. It delivers huge chocolaty flavors and a hint of peat-smoky flavors that remind you of a fine single-malt scotch. Don’t be set back from the price tag; it’s still less expensive per ounce than many reasonably priced wines and delivers huge “bang for the buck.”

Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale – is only a semi-big beer at 6.8% ABV. This beer delivers a big hoppy spice as opposed to the aforementioned nutmeg or allspice flavors. It relies on a big malty backdrop for its balance. A real winner!

De Dolle-Stille Nacht – Belgium needs to be mentioned in any conversation concerning winter beer. The country’s annual Kerstbierfestival is the largest Christmas beer festival in the world and Stille Nacht is always a festival favorite. The recipe has changed a bit over the years, but seems to have only gotten better. This beer weighs in a 12% ABV and is intensely fruity, but warming - a modern classic.

Other “Noel” beers from Belgium – There are many, many “Noel” beers offered up by several small breweries in Belgium. The Belgians are already known for using spices in their year-round offerings, so why not in the winter seasonals? The good thing is they know how to pull it off. Look for Chouffe Noel or Gouden Carolus Noel. They will not disappoint…

You may have heard of “icewine.” How about “eisbock”? There are a few breweries in Germany that take an already strong and malty doppelbock beer and freeze it, then toss out the icy slush, leaving an even stonger, more intense beer. Kulmbacher Reichelbrau Eisbock tips the scale at a modest 9.2% ABV and is a standard for the style. But the best eisbock I have ever tasted was brewed right here in the good old U.S.A. Kuhnhenn Raspberry Eisbock at 13.5% ABV, can be served like fine schnapps or brandy; as an aperitif or as a stand-alone dessert.

Locally Available Beers (Yes! There are a few):

Samuel Adams Winter Lager – Although Sam’s calls this a “Bock” beer, it a little light in the strength department to carry such credentials. I can say that whatever it is, it’s a rich amber lager that delivers good flavor, especially if found on tap. Spicing is barely detectable and very balanced. A well-made beer. (It’s best purchased from the cooler and not the aisle, like all beer)

St Peter’s Cream Stout (above) – is a year-round beer that works especially well on those cold evenings. This beer is full of raisin, date and hints of vanilla; all smoothed out with creamy sweetness that’s not too cloying.

Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout – The use of oats in this beer comes through in the medium body. Its silky sweetness is balanced with a deep roasted flavor, reminiscent of dark cocoa.

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