I am always a bit wary of any pub that labels itself an “Irish Pub.” Usually such places wind up being poser bars serving up the obligatory Guinness on tap and laying claim to making the best “Black and Tan,” but having nothing else beery to brag about. So, when I hopped out of the hotel shuttle and through the door of the Dubliner Irish Pub in Dayton, Ohio, I thought I knew what I was in for. But I didn’t expect to run into an old friend.

To my delight, the Dubliner seemed to me to be a “working man’s pub” that could easily tolerate the occasional yuppie business crowd — and proved itself hospitable to this thirsty traveler. The place turned out to have a decent beer selection, though a beer menu or at least a beer list on a chalkboard would be a welcome addition (and would help sell more beer!)

After getting over the frustration of having to listen to the bartender regurgitate a not-so accurate or intelligible beer menu, I spotted, and promptly ordered the Great Lakes Dortmunder Gold that was on tap. I could feel the thirst leaving my body as I quaffed away. Things were going as planned – I was sipping a great beer in a decent pub and when I was ready to go, all I had to do was phone-up the hotel shuttle to transport me safely back to my room. But then it happened; out of the corner of my eye, and on my last sip of that excellent dortmunder beer, I spotted my old pal!

Hello you old codger! You are looking pretty well! I am glad I noticed you standing there in that tall black and red can. If this place only had a beer menu, I would have known you were here earlier and we could have spent more time together.

I would like to introduce all of you, to my old friend from County Cork: Beamish Irish Stout.

In the world of Irish stout there are basically three major players, with the famous Guinness stout as market leader. Guinness is a good beer in its own right, but there is more to “Dry Irish Stout” than one stout from Dublin can live up to. Guinness is made with all of the traditional ingredients, but part of the grain mash is allowed to “sour,” imparting a lactic acid (a yogurt-like acidity) to the beer. While this flavor is interesting and is the Guinness signature, I believe it affects drinkability when coupled with the dark, acrid, roasted grains that make up a stout; exhausting the palate after only a couple of pints. This poses a slight problem because stouts are supposed to be session beers, always low in alcohol and light in body so “The Lads” can drink a few pints without getting too pissed up.

Then there is Murphy’s Stout from Cork. I find Murphy’s extremely mild, finishing dry but seeming a bit thin and watery. Murphy’s light and dry flavor allows the roasted barley to come through, reminding me of iced coffee. This stout is very drinkable, but is lacking a “hook” that would make you want another; an irony because it’s light enough to drink “many a pint.”

My favorite is Beamish Irish Stout, brewed by Beamish and Crawford brewery in Cork, Ireland. My old friend is definitely the lesser known of the big three, but the clear winner in delivering “interesting drinkability.” This night I am drinking Beamish from a can. The canned version delivers a freshness that can only be outclassed by the draught version (when properly poured). The can utilizes the nitrogen widget, which assures the drinker the pleasure of watching the cascading foam bubbles erupt as the nitrogen bursts through the darkness of the beer; breaking the surface like a school of fish on feeding frenzy. The bubbles form the thick, creamy tan head that is the trademark of a properly poured stout.

The generous use of hops is evident. The hops add the “hook” that is needed, without taking away from the “all-night long” potential of this beer, meaning that I could sit and drink this all night long. The beer is not quite as thin as Murphy’s, but it doesn’t come off as heavy either. When the beer warms a bit, some banana esters can make it through, which just adds to its complex and interesting flavor.

Beamish used to be available in stores right here in beer-starved West Virginia, but not in the last several years. If you happen to find it, do yourself a favor and pick up a few cans. If you find yourself in a pub that is serving it on tap, call me… I’ll be right over!

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