Finally, Strong Beer Comes to WV! (But at a price…)
Regular readers of this blog may automatically assume that I am doing back-flips of joy as I type out this blog entry; but that isn’t happening. In fact, I write this with mixed feelings and even some despair.
As you know, West Virginia’s beer laws are trapped in a time capsule that dates all the way back to the reversal of prohibition; steeped in patriarchal fear of allowing the masses to have easy access to that most dangerous of beverages, beer. Our beer laws actually create and maintain an inept monopoly of beer distributors in what is referred to as a “tiered system.” The laws also severely limit the availability of many of the world’s best beers by capping the alcohol content at 6% ABV.
Last year, the W.Va. legislature had an opportunity to help bring the state into the 21st century by raising the ABV limits on beer. This move would have brought us in line with 48 other states and would have drastically improved consumer choice. The House of Delegates caved on the legislation for fear that it would upset the “Church Lady” in an election year. The cowards were given cover by one of the most inept of state leaders, Dallas Staples, head of the Alcoholic Beverage Commission. Mr. Staples, a former police chief with zero experience in the beverage industry came up with the silly idea of allowing higher alcohol beers to be sold through the state’s liquor system. This is a stupid idea on so many levels, but it gave the house enough cover to “table” the issue without realizing (or just not caring) that they were actually limiting consumer choice. The reality is that this path to the market is a torturous one. It adds layers of complexity for the brewery representatives and adds extreme mark-ups and more than doubles the tax to the consumer. Unless the legislature realizes how bad the “Beer as Liquor” idea is, they will never move to change the beer laws. This is why I am not so happy to tell you about this very decent beer; the beer that’s legally considered liquor in West Virginia. OK, now let’s talk about beer…
Witche’s Brew is brewed in Belgium by Brewery Van Steenberg. They are the brewers of many famous Belgian brands such as Gulden Draak and Monk’s sour ale. This beer falls loosely into the “Triple” or “Strong Golden” categories, though Belgians abhor being boxed in by style designations. This blonde beer weighs in at 9.3%ABV and is bitter enough to balance. Sold in corked 750ml bottles, the beer delivers the pop and fizz of champagne and finishes dry.
I found Witches brew at The Liquor Company at Patrick Street Plaza. They are selling the corked 750ml bottle for $17.49. That is pretty pricey for this type of beer and is a direct result of the fact that it’s bought and sold as “liquor”. The tax on liquor is 11% versus 5% on beer. This beer would sell for about $11.50 normally; so it appears that WV consumers are paying nearly 50% more than a consumer in a “normal” state like Ohio. Then we have to add insult to injury, tack on the liquor tax of 11% and you are getting close to twenty bucks per 750ml bottle!
This beer will pair well with triple-cream cheese such as Brillat Savarin. It will go very well with creamy seafood dishes like seafood Alfredo or lump-crab mac and cheese. It has the ability to cut through fatty, creamy dishes, yet it’s delicate enough to keep the subtle seafood flavors intact.
I guess the good news is that the availability of this beer will open up many new “culinary doors” for WV foodies that until now have had to compromise or tweak menus due to the lack of a beer selection. My fear is that it may never get any better beyond this one beer, based on my concerns voiced in the previous paragraphs.
October 7th, 2008 at 12:10 pm
Buddy, it’s all the same.
October 8th, 2008 at 1:56 pm
I saw this stuff at The Liquor Co., but didn’t know the story behind it, so didn’t buy any. Love Gulden Draak, so will have to try this one. Thanks for clearing up the situation. You say “My fear is that it may never get any better beyond this one beer,…”
How did we (WV) come to pick this one ? Why not Draak or Chimay or any one of a hundred different beers ?
October 8th, 2008 at 2:29 pm
Ron, I am just as curious as you are. Apparently the rep who handles this must have decided to “run the gauntlet” and get this put through the State liquor system…
Your final question supports my point that the ABC folks have no knowledge of the beer industry. I would have at least made sure that I sourced a beer that had instant retail recognition, like Chimay. We certainly know that the local brew shops have no idea how to sell the stuff and at that price, it will probably sit, go bad (and maybe turn off a few consumers) and be the excuse they need to write the whole idea off as a failure. This whole idea puts real reform at risk, and may in fact, turn-off the public by selling them bad beer at a premium price.
By the way, did you see that they had the beer right there in the aisle? This is real ale with yeast in the bottle! Can anyone say bottle bomb? (It is packed in a champagne bottle so it should be safe, but watch that cork!)
October 8th, 2008 at 2:48 pm
Vile Belgian swill!
October 8th, 2008 at 4:09 pm
It looks like I will have to continue spending my hard earned dollars at beer stores in Ashland KY and South Point OH. Come on WV get with the 21’st century.
October 9th, 2008 at 8:53 am
Enh, it’s an okay beer. All the standard Belgian tropes are present: banana and currant undertones, somewhat dry mouthfeel, and alcohol that hits harder and faster than the ABV would suggest (I blame the carbonation). I’m not a belgian fan generally and this isn’t the beer to make me one.
Still, it’s kind of drinkable, but not - I repeat NOT - worth the astounding price tag. Just under $20 after tax. That’s insane. When I think of all the vastly superior beers available across the border (any border) that kick the living $#!t outta this brew for half the price…well, it makes me wonder why I moved back to WV.
BTW, anyone going to Bramwell? And, anyone else hoping for bad weather so we don’t have a repeat of last year’s overcrowded, under supplied biker rally? I’m bringing a mix of stuff from my cellar - Stones, mostly - to share. It’d also be a good place for a trade or two.
October 21st, 2008 at 9:58 am
I’m looking forward to trying it, despite the price. I love Belgian beers; whenever I visit my brother in Nashville I pick up a bunch of Duvel, Chimay, La Chouffe, etc.
October 21st, 2008 at 10:21 pm
And you should keep spending your hard earned beer money out of state…
October 31st, 2008 at 11:45 pm
I understand it is $15 at Smoker Friendly in Scott Depot…from a somewhat (intoxicated) reliable source
You do realize it is a better deal to drive to House of Wines in Marietta OH than to by this in WV?
Witch’s Brew - 6-pack (volume equivalence) = $82.20
6-pack Einbecker Ur-Bock @ 6.5% - $11.61 (or Dogfish Head Immort Ale @ 11% - $17.42)
Gas - $21.97
2-hr @ min wage - $14.50
Total - $48.08 or $53.89
Road trip anyone? I suggest a weekly prohibition style transport.
November 3rd, 2008 at 11:37 pm
Maybe now the US Attorney’s office will take care of Dallas Staples and his lack of beer-knowledge!
Heh.
November 8th, 2008 at 12:19 pm
Rich - Good to be back on Blog Avenue. Sorry I missed some issues. I was wondering about the beer law. I had heard rumors that there was something that changed, but I can see why you have heartburn about how it went down.
Also had wondered about the new Bud ale. Doesn’t sound like a real winner, but it could be a step in the right direction for A-B, from what you report. “Sweet” is not an appealing characteristic to some of us, but then, many of the Belgian beers have sweetness, and still make the grade somehow. Could this be an influence from A-B’s new owner, or is it way too early for that to have had a positive impact on product?