I am an unapologetic lover of bar food in its myriad greasy forms. But I think the Riverside Anchor is operating on an entirely different plane of bar food goodness. Even at the best watering holes, the food is almost an afterthought — a way to get you to stay if you’re hungry or fill you with salty stuff to make you guzzle more beer. The Anchor has all of the usual greasy suspects like burgers and wings, but often with unique twists. Their sandwiches, called “squeaks,” aren’t served on bread, but rather in what is best described as a folded pizza crust. The catcher’s mitt-sized chicken squeak is so incredibly good, it’ll get its own review another day.

But what really dazzles me about the Anchor is the Tomato Pie, which might be the best pizza in Charleston. In a bar (be it one with a family atmosphere). How many bars these days even have pizza? Oh, and with another unique twist, they don’t call it “pizza.” (They do have something called pizza on the menu, but to be clear, what I’m talking about is the Anchor’s Tomato Pie.) Sometimes I actually have a hard time talking about the Tomato Pie without crying. It’s that damn good. It’s a somewhat thin crust, brushed with a garlic oil, then topped with juicy pieces of chunky tomato. No sauce, because it doesn’t need it. Then it’s sprinkled with mozzarella and Parmesan cheese, and the toppings of your choice (I usually go for pepperoni and onion). It’s simple, but recipes like this are so rare on menus — something the cook likely dreamed up for himself years ago through trial and error and in the process created a minor masterpiece. Seriously, people. Look at this:

The Anchor’s Tomato Pies are also remarkably consistent. Everything is browned perfectly every single time — something even dedicated pizza joints can’t seem to nail down. Are they using one of those fancy conveyor ovens? One time I ventured past the forest of vintage outboard motors to sneak a peak into the kitchen, and this much was clear — they’re not messing around back there. The Anchor might just be a restaurant masquerading as a bar.

Another example — crab stuffed portobello mushroom caps:

For those of you gawking along at home, these are stuffed with crab, cream cheese, onion and celery. I hate to use lame menu-speak, but if this isn’t browned to perfection, I don’t know what is.

– By Josh Saul

IF YOU GO: The Riverside Anchor 3315 Kanawha Blvd E., Charleston, WV 25306
CALL: 304-925-9902 (Phone ahead & they’ll have your pie ready when you arrive!)
EXTRAS: Vintage outboard boat motors, family atmosphere, “take & bake” pie.

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