SITAR OF INDIA: A Side of Gravy With That?

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By Brooke A. Brown

Only in West Virginia could a curry be lovingly dubbed a gravy. And I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Contrary to popular belief, Sitar of India, 702 Lee Street, offers so much more than its much-ballyhooed Chicken Tikka Masala. Don’t get me wrong: this particular bally is certainly worthy of much hooing, especially for first-time diners. The gravy is bright, creamy and naturally milder than other menu selections, and the chicken is tender and juicy. But this dish is far from being the restaurant’s only star.

For instance, the Vindaloo (Vinda who?) gravy packs an immediate tang to the tongue, thanks in large part to a healthy application of vinegar to the sauce. The lightness of the vinegar barely masks the variety of exotic spices and therefore delivers a much more pronounced level of heat than the weightier, more absorbent cream-based gravies. How hot is it? Let’s put it this way: unlike other dishes at the Sitar, the Vindaloo cannot be ordered mild.

Getting back to cream-based gravies, the Korma is especially delicious as it incorporates golden raisins and nuts (typically cashews) to the dish. The flood of sweetness that cools the palette each time you bite into a plump, juicy raisin is always a welcome surprise. Each of these gravies, including the Masala, is appropriately paired with the likes of chicken, lamb, fish or shrimp, and is served with a dish of steaming basmati rice.

The Sitar and gravy are a match well made in Almost Heaven. But I’ve barely scratched the surface of their extensive menu, which offers a bevy of North Indian cuisines, including several vegetarian dishes. More on that to come.

If You Go: Sitar of India Authentic North Indian dishes from mild to spicy. 702 Lee St. E., Charleston. 304/346-3745. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.- 2:30 p.m., Sat 12- 2:30 p.m., Dinner Mon-Sat 5- 9:30 p.m. Website.

Brooke A. Brown (a k a “brooklyn”) is an adventurous, equal-opportunity consumer with no known food allergies who enjoys dining out frequently, both near and far, with his best friend and wife of eleven years, the lovely Miss S. A graduate of WV State University, Brown’s full-time gig finds him donning the thinking cap of an advertising executive at the Charleston-based agency Bryan Boyd Creative Group. A foodie to the core, Brown is an accomplished home cook who enjoys slinging hash and creating new dishes, Iron Chef-style, in his kitchen on Charleston’s East End. Allez Cuisine!

16 Responses to “SITAR OF INDIA: A Side of Gravy With That?”

  1. Marlana Says:

    YEA!! Right on!

  2. Jeff Says:

    Excellent! LOL @ curry = gravy! Perfect!

    Great descriptions of the “gravies”! As all fans of Indo-Pak cuisine will attest, the curry is the key. Err…the gravy is the key.

    If I didn’t just eat a huge burrito, I’d be on my way to Star of India. Either way, way to get my appetite engorged like a sailor on leave!

  3. Mary Angel Says:

    Brooke’s article provides an enticing description of the Sitar’s food and his writing makes me smile. I might try something other than the “tika” next time!

  4. Bryan A. Boyd Says:

    I found Brooke Brown’s review of the Sitar of India not only smart and enteraining, but right on the money in regard to the dishes! His writing style was to the point yet still brings a smile! If I wasn’t already a Sitar regular, I would definately pay the restaurant a visit based on the review! Good work!

  5. Kaarmin` Says:

    My tastebuds long for the food you so eloquently described! Your descriptions are such an accurate description of the awesomeness that is Sitar. Bravo!! I think my lunch choice has been made for the day.

  6. The Lovely Miss S Says:

    Now, I know some will accuse me of being partial to this particular writer because he is my dearest Sweetie Pie, and the best home-based Iron Chef around. That being said, one cannot dispute the excellence of the cuisine at Sitar of India. The curries are multilayered and delicious, and the Tikka, well what more can be said about the Tikka? It is sublime.

    As for the writer, he writes as well as he cooks, and THAT’S saying something! Bon Appetit Charleston!

  7. Al Peery Says:

    Man, your descriptions of that curry-gravy have got me hankerin’. I think I might need one of those big puffy Poori biscuits to sop it all up in….MMMMMMMM.

  8. Candace Wilson Says:

    Pass me a napkin… my mouth is watering!!

    Very nice write up!

  9. john Says:

    Well done. When I read that you were now a blogger, I thought, “What the heck. I’ll humor this fellow. After all, he has provided me with fine meals and good music.” But, honestly, it was a joy to read. True to form, you didn’t “dubya” this up and provided us with an engaging piece,

  10. brooklyn Says:

    Thanks for the great feedback, gang!

    Marlana: Thanks for all the exclamations!
    Jeff: I want to hear more about this burrito.
    Mary and Bryan: Your checks are in the mail.
    Kaarmin: Yes, the Sitar is pure awesomeness.
    Miss S: You’re my inspiration.
    Al: I’ll see you a poori & raise you a garlic nan.
    Candace: We’re totally eating here when you visit.
    John: I need that pasta primavera recipe.

    Be on the lookout for more posts soon, and thanks again.

  11. Lynn Says:

    I just had dinner and after reading the blog on the Sitar, I would eat again! The Sitar is a rockin’ establishment and your write-up gave it the justice it deserves. Woo-hoo!

    On an interesting note, I believe you could sell ketchup popsicles to a lady in white gloves. Your writing is amusing and deliciously descriptive. I want more!

  12. Mom Says:

    Made me want to order some gravy, but you know I don’t usually do that! Great job! When you taking me there?

  13. Alan Kuhlman Says:

    Already a big fan of Sitar but the descriptions were great! A great night out is to go with 4 or 5 friends order the sampler bread basket, 5/6 different meals,a few bottles of Kewerztraminer(Sp?) and pass those plates around the table…tough to beat!!

  14. Sally Says:

    Brooke! Do they serve that gravey on the Vegetarian dishes? I can’t wait to hear your review on one of them. I love their salad too! Sally

  15. Rich Ireland Says:

    Enjoyed the Blog… Fun read and I learned something as well!

  16. Emily Says:

    I recently moved to Virginia and have yet to find a suitable replacement for the Sitar. I don’t think it’s possible. I miss you, Sitar of India.

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