DESSERT: Homage to Keeley Lime Pie
Photo by Douglas Imbrogno
By Brooke A. Brown
Settle down, spellcheckers of the world. You’re collective eyes are not betraying you in the headline above. But if you’ve been lucky enough to experience Keeley Steele’s delectable Key Lime Pie at her Bluegrass Kitchen, 1600 Washington St. East, you understand the need to tag this classic dessert with a new John Henry. So what exactly makes for a nice slice of Key Lime Pie? To my buds, there are 3 necessary components:
1. Creamy texture
2. Appropriate sweet-to-sour ratio
3. Graham cracker crust
Now this sounds like an easy enough of a thing to accomplish, but with Keeley’s heavenly version, God is definitely in the details. First of all, the texture is light and creamy, landing softly on the smoothness-scale somewhere between creme brulée and cheesecake. It’s like buttah! At first bite, the subtle sweetness is enhanced by the creamy texture. But as your eyes slowly swim to the back of your head, a certain twang suddenly appears and sends them immediately forward. It’s not a bitter awakening, mind you, rather a gentle, good day sunshine sort of an arrangement. It’s the perfect sour yin to sweet yang.
Finally, we must discuss the very first piece of proper pie construction: the crust. Typically speaking, a graham cracker crust is about as easy to make as it is to eat. Simply combine crumbs, sugar and butter, press into a pan and bake it off. Easy peasy. But once again, this pie goes beyond simplicity into detail-oriented, food-is-love territory. Now I don’t claim to know the recipe, but I swear there’s a pinch of something (nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice?) mixed into that crust. Maybe it’s pixie dust.
The proverbial “cherry” on this “cream pie” is a generous dollop of fresh-whipped cream - the only kind that rewards patience, effort and time. You’ll never find this dreamy fluffery in a store-bought can, or even one of those fancy nitrous oxide charger jobs. (Don’t even mention the stuff in the tub, delicious as it is. It’s way out of its league with this pie.) Anyway, I like to evenly distribute the cream, as if I’m icing a cake, all over the slice. This ensures fresh, creamery goodness in every bite.
So next time you find yourself enjoying a meal at the Bluegrass Kitchen, which means the next time you eat there, be sure to save room for a slice of Keeley Lime Pie. If you’re with someone, and they respond to the question of dessert with something along the lines of “I’m pretty full, maybe I’ll just have a bite of yours”… then do yourselves a favor. Order at least two slices.
IF YOU GO: Bluegrass Kitchen
DETAILED REVIEW PAGE | Website | 1600 Washington St. E. 304/346-2871. Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri-Sat 10 a.m -10 p.m. Brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m., Sat-Sun.
July 23rd, 2007 at 3:43 pm
Make no qualms about it, I will slap my mother straight in the teeth for a nice slice of key lime!
Damn you, Brooke! I’m going to be 300 pounds, now!
(See how I blame you for my lack of self-control?)
I never really considered the sweet-to-sour ratio, but you’re absolutely right. I’ve had overly sweet, sometimes grainy key lime pie and it’s a turn-off.
The fresh whipped cream sounds perfect, as well.
I need a napkin - mouth watering.
July 24th, 2007 at 8:29 am
I think it’s safe to say that last comment about ordering two slices, lest one’s dinner companion take more than her fair share, may just be directed at yours truly. Oh well, it’s true…Keeley’s pie is so delicious it can send even the most dedicated dieter off the wagon. So, do yourself a favor, leave your diet at the door and indulge in a slice (your own, of course) of this beautifully, and artfully described concoction. It’s worth every sweet bite!
July 24th, 2007 at 9:06 am
I am currently on WeightWatches and have been since January. I have myself a reprieve during my anniversary in January while spending one week in Florida. During my vacation, I had a slice of what I considered pretty darn good Key Lime Pie.
After reading Brooke Brown’s tasteful and convincing review of Keeley Lime Pie from the Bluegrass Kitchen, I fear I will be forced to declare yet another truce in my carb-calorie battle to sample this delight!
Bryan Boyd
July 24th, 2007 at 9:14 am
While I’ve never met a dessert I didn’t like, now I’m ready for a visit to Bluegrass Kitchen for a fix!
Great blog entries, Brooke is one of my favorite foodies! Looking forward to reading more of his culinary adventures.
July 24th, 2007 at 9:15 am
You know…I’ve never tried the Keeley Lime Pie at Bluegrass Kitchen. After an order of Artic Char on top of a Bruchetta and cleaning up the plate of my wifey who has a problem with her eye-to-stomach ratio, I’m done for the day. But, with proper planning, and prompted by Brooke’s epicurial eloquence, I will have my pie on the next visit. Thanks for the article. Your prose is not only a pleasure to read, but inspires action.
July 24th, 2007 at 10:18 am
Nobody knows deserts better than Brooke ! After reading his review, I’ll be gassing up the car and driving to the Bluegrass Kitchen for some pie. Hard to find that perfect combo of sweet & sour. In Brooke’s taste buds I trust.
keep the reviews coming, love reading BB’s take on the world of food.
July 24th, 2007 at 11:52 am
I’ve long searched for the perfect slice of key lime goodness. When I’ve ordered it in the past, I’m often disappointed when the confection proves to be all sweetness and no bite. I’m intrigued by Brooke’s description of the sweet-to-sour ratio of this pie and will stop in to try a slice next time I’m in town. I’m looking forward to your next review!
July 24th, 2007 at 2:58 pm
I have to agree with Brooke. I am quite the connoisseur of Key Lime Pie. I have traveled all over southern Florida and have tasted Key lime Pie at every eatery I could find. Keeley Lime Pie is as good as you can get. It even rivals the pies in Key West.
July 24th, 2007 at 4:34 pm
Pass me a fork! This sounds tripindiculary scrumdidliumptios!
July 24th, 2007 at 8:57 pm
All this kind of talk of pie makes me want to drive all the way up to WV and get me a piece!!!
July 25th, 2007 at 8:50 am
Jeffrey, I beg of you…if you slap your mother in the teeth (and this pie could certainly cause such a reaction), at least reward her pain with a slice of pie. Just be sure to duck, bob or weave after she takes a bite.
July 25th, 2007 at 10:49 am
Arrgghh. I’m generally not a “sweet-eater”, but more of a “a second helping of the main course” type. However, if out at a good restaurant, have developed a relationship based on trust with the waiter or waitress, and the assure me that there is “really wonderful Key Lime Pie” waiting for me in the kitchen, I will break with routine. Bluegrass need not prep more than it’s usual store of the entrees on my account…just more of the Keeley Lime Pie.
Brooke, Calvin Trillin and you might have parallel paths. Good writin’. It’s a quarter to twelve and I am hungerin’, for pie and more blog-filled soup.
Peace,
jrd
July 25th, 2007 at 4:56 pm
Ohhh… that looks delicious! Thanks for the heads up, Brooke!
August 22nd, 2007 at 12:10 pm
[…] I will say this: there are at least two local restaurants that serve really good coffee. The first is Tidewater. Theirs is a nice, dark-roasted brew that may even contain a touch of chicory a la the Café du Monde. The other is Bluegrass Kitchen. They opt for a shade-grown, fair-traded organic bean in both regular and cinnamon-enhanced varieties. The cinnamon coffee is especially good with a slice of Keeley Lime Pie. […]