CILANTRO’S: Tac-o the Town
“I’m in what some may consider a rut as I always build the same delicious taco-scape: rice, shredded chicken, jalapeños, cheese, lettuce, chipotle sauce and corn salsa.” | Photo by Brooke A. Brown
My wife – the charming and frequent ‘Blog in My Soup’ commenter known as The Lovely Miss S – is not a fan of cilantro. As a matter of fact, she refers to the herbage as “the evil spice.” I can’t say I blame her. The incredibly pungent cilantro is a lot like kudzo in that once it’s introduced into a situation, its invasive nature completely takes over. And not unlike The Princess and the Pea, my Lovely Miss S can spot the faintest speck of cilantro in any dish. Luckily for us both, Cilantro’s the restaurant is not all about the herb.
Housed in the former home of local chef/entrepreneur Virgil Sadorra’s pre-fire Delish, Cilantro’s Tex-Mex Grill (also a Sadorra endeavor) is a taqueria fashioned similarly after national chain Chipotle Mexican Grill. (Cilantro’s is to Chipotle as McDowell’s is to McDonalds?) The way it works is you have three options: burrito, taco or shirtless, which refers to the fillings being served in a bowl sans wrapper, or shirt. You then choose your fillings from an impressive assembly line of ingredients: black beans, rice, grilled veggies, a variety of well-seasoned meats, creative sauces, salsas and more.
When I opt for the burrito, the construction process is always the same: beans and rice, fish (in this case tilapia), jalapeños, cheese, lettuce, fiesta sauce and mango salsa. Now the burritos at Cilantro’s are easily the size of Popeye’s forearms, so don’t waste time worrying if there’s going to be enough food inside that soft flour tortilla to satisfy your lunch or dinner hunger pangs. You’ll be just as stuffed as that burrito was once you’ve reached E.W.S. (Empty Wrapper Status). The thing to worry about is… do I have enough napkins?
My favorite choice at Cilantro’s is undoubtedly the tacos. Three come to an order and, as with the burrito, I’m in what some may consider a rut as I always build the same delicious taco-scape: rice, shredded chicken, jalapeños, cheese, lettuce, chipotle sauce and corn salsa. And like hot sauce to a Big Fish, it is imperative that this dish receives a healthy application of taco sauce, which is kept separate from the gourmet stuff. With the taco option, you not only get that fantastic crunch, but also the delicate, almost nutty flavor of the yellow corn tortilla. It’s the perfect complement to all that’s going on inside the shell.
There is a downside. If you’re dining on tacos at Cilantro’s, it’s next to impossible to carry on a conversation with a table-mate, seeing as how these particular stuffed hard-shells are such an interactive experience. Remember, however, that you’re working with a trio, so there are designed stops between tacos that can be used to work your way back into the dialogue already in progress. That is unless your friend is also having tacos, in which case you’d both need to be eating in complete synchronicity in order to converse at the designated stops. I say leave the talking for afterward.
IF YOU GO: Cilantro’s Tex-Mex Grill, 110 McFarland Street, Charleston, W.Va.
August 28th, 2007 at 1:06 pm
I do like the build-your-own burritos at Cilantro’s, but what a mess. I have to tell the help not to overstuff because it it’s like eating a Chihuahua. With taco sauce. Plus, it’d be nice to have some more drink options like a Jones cream soda. Or a Red Stripe. But all-in-all, a good hole in the wall.
August 28th, 2007 at 2:14 pm
More drink options would be a very good thing. Love the Red Stripe idea (currently they only offer Dos Equis and Corona). The Boylan brand of sodas, what with their natural cane sugar sweetener, would make for a nice choice, too. Their ginger ale is especially refreshing and crisp, and the ginger would help with digestive functions.
August 28th, 2007 at 2:40 pm
I really love Cilantro’s– sort of like dropping in on relatives unannounced for dinner– you either want tacos/burritos, or you don’t want to eat. You either want a cerveza or you don’t. But the things that you get in return for limited choices are so worthwhile! Some nights I yearn for the shredded pork with raspberry sauce and mango salsa…or fish with the creamy sauce…yumm!
August 29th, 2007 at 8:52 am
Cilantro haters, there’s a web site for you (if you haven’t heard of it already): www.ihatecilantro.com. Personally, I absolutely love the stuff. I’m very happy that the inexplicable month-long cilantro shortage at Kroger has finally ended. How the heck can you make salsa without cilantro? I cook Tex-Mex a lot at home and it just isn’t the same without cilantro.
August 29th, 2007 at 9:21 am
Ha-ha… I thought you were talking about the restaurant at first, Red. Too funny. I’ll be sure my wife visits the site (thanks for the link).
I have found that most people either love cilantro, or hate it. I’m one of the minority in-betweeners. It certainly doesn’t bother me if it makes an appearance in a dish, but some chefs go a little nuts with it, like they’re piling cheese on a Skyline Chili 5-Way.
August 30th, 2007 at 8:49 am
My Dearest Brooke, thank you for giving voice to the cilantro (the herb) haters of the world. Glad to know we have a site all to ourselves (thanks Red). I’ve always felt I was in the minority, as most folks we know simply love the stuff and even order extra.
Fortuntately, as my Sweetie pointed out, the restaurant Cilantro’s gives us the option of a completely cilantro-free meal. Yeah!
Also, their prices are great. Tuesday night is buy-one get-one half price, so it’s a terrific cheap date, leaving couples plenty o’ cash to catch a $5.00 movie at Park Place.
August 30th, 2007 at 9:06 am
It sounds sort of odd that you can get a cilantro-free meal at a restaurant named after the herb, but it’s true. I believe that all of their salsas have cilantro, so if you’re on the same side as my Miss S, steer clear and just order extra sauce (most of which are herb-free).
In response to the commentary that a Cilantro’s meal is a messy one (and it certainly is), at least it’s not as messy as a meal at Taco Town.
September 2nd, 2007 at 5:20 am
Yo Quero Cilantro’s! Bring on the napkins….
September 3rd, 2007 at 2:09 am
I tried Cilantro’s for the first time on Thursday–and for the second time on Friday! Excellent fare, but I can see how one can get in a rut. If you get something you like, why take a chance on other options that may not be as much to your liking? So far it’s been strictly beef, but in order to avoid that rut, next time I’m vowing to try something different. Come to think of it, I’ve been in worse ruts, though.