ONE DISH REVIEW: Gratzi, But No Gratzi
By Brooke A. Brown
If I had to pick a favorite cuisine – and, thankfully, I don’t – it would definitely be Italian. There’s just so much diversity, what with the cured meats, pastas, risottos, fish and fowl, vegetables, olive oil, beef, pizzas, cheese (my God, the cheese!)… I could go on and on. We are fortunate to have a number of fine Italian eateries here in Charleston, but I’m not going to mention any of them today. Instead, I’m going to talk about Gratzi.
Well, maybe that was a tad harsh. Aesthetically speaking, Gratzi is a beautiful restaurant with an extremely warm and welcoming vibe. Located at Charleston’s Town Center Mall, one would never guess that an Olive Garden used to occupy the exact same space. The seating is comfortable, the menu is extensive and the service is attentive.
Looks certainly aren’t everything, though, and one cannot judge a plate of food solely by its appearance, either. Take, for instance, Gratzi’s Baked Ziti with Bolognese Sauce. It looks extremely delicious. I mean, come on – just look at all that melted cheese! I’m sorry to inform, however, that it was only mediocre at best. I ordered the dish because I was craving comfort food, and there are few dishes more comforting than baked pasta with sauce and cheese. Unfortunately for me, there was nothing comforting about this particular meal. In fact, it was quite un-delicious.
Sauce Bolognese is traditionally a very thick ragu consisting of beef, onions, carrots, tomato paste, beef broth and milk. The flavors imparted from the sauce are rich and creamy from the long, slow cooking process. Gratzi’s Bolognese, even after baking in an oven with the absorbent accompaniment of pasta noodles, was watery and flavorless. The only redeeming quality was the cheese, both the melted and fresh-grated varieties. Yet cheese, although wonderfully delicious, does not a meal make.
Now I realize one negative taste experience is no reason to completely give up on a place. Neither are two, I suppose. (The Lovely Miss S’s Ravioli alla Gratzi was also rather bland.) As a matter of fact, a couple of friends with very respectable palates claim that Gratzi does a beautiful job with salmon. I’ll take their word for it. I’ll even give Gratzi another try. Only next time I’ll leave the bolognese and take the cannoli.
IF YOU GO: Gratzi, 1061 Charleston Town Center, Charleston, W.Va., 304-344-4824
October 31st, 2007 at 3:58 pm
Fuhgeddaboutit! The food that is…our local Mom and Pops (Fazio’s and Leonoro’s), serve up much tastier Italian fare than this national chain. Maybe it’s a cookin’ with love thing, I don’t know, but they’re, by far, your best bet for comfort food in this town.
November 1st, 2007 at 6:21 am
Gratzi’s isn’t a national chain, but part of the small high-end chain that includes Chop House and Tidewater. I have had a much different experience there (though never having ordered the two dishes you did). I get the penne with peas (and without the meat) and love it. Good service, too. It’s one of my special occasion restaurants.
November 1st, 2007 at 11:30 am
Gratzi sucks. And it’s expensive. I remember reading the Food Guy’s glowing review of that place a while back, and it made me want to throw things. At him. I keep hearing stories about “Oh no, you need to order ______. It’s really great.” I’m sorry, but how many $60 dinners am I supposed to pay for before I find the 2 or 3 items on the menu that don’t taste like they came from a prison cafeteria?
And I love that these guys own Tidewater too, because THAT place might be the most consistently overrated restaurant in Charleston. I finally gave up when they sent me a plate of fried oysters that tasted like Barbie heads.
And it’s no secret what I think of the Chop House.
I do like Fazio’s though. Now, I’ll be the first to admit that they consistently overcook their pasta, but the baked eggplant parm is heavenly — and one of the cheapest things on the menu. I’ve had had really great steak and salmon there as well. Some people complain about the bread they serve, but come on — the Italians don’t exactly have a great and proud tradition of bread making.
November 1st, 2007 at 11:51 am
[…] Brooke Brown saves me from wasting a Franklin at Gratzi over at “There’s A Blog In My Soup.” I guess I can cook my own Italian cuisine. That way I know it’ll be good. […]
November 2nd, 2007 at 12:18 pm
I LOVED Gratzi’s the first time I went. The lasagna was so good and different than the kind I normally like. And loved the bread too. I went back on my birthday (1/2 price meal, just like Tidewater and Chop House) and had the same thing and was very disappointed. It wasn’t nearly as good as the first time. The service was excellent but it was not crowded at all.
Both times I paid with gift certificates. I doubt I’ll go back.
I also thought Chop House and Tidewater were very overrated, especially Chop House. At least Tidewater has the killer bread.
November 3rd, 2007 at 9:05 am
I learned a long time ago that, like women, it’s not how food looks that’s important. It’s how it tastes.
November 25th, 2007 at 4:38 pm
Leonoro’s was our place in CRW. It’s been 25 years since I left WV, but i still remember and treasure my meals at this place. From the old location on Broad(?) to the Washington St location. A family owned place that cares for food will always beat a chain.
January 8th, 2008 at 10:53 am
[…] I know that my one dish review of Gratzi wasn’t a glowing one, but I didn’t think it would close the place down! That’s right, folks… the Charleston Gratzi is no more. The ability to get a free birthday meal in this town just became a touch more difficult. […]
February 22nd, 2008 at 6:00 am
[…] Read the rest of this great post here […]