REVIEW: Getting Sauced at Leonoro’s
“Its flavors are deep tomato red with a hint of smoke and a balanced bitterness that evokes a hearty red wine.” | Photo by Brooke A. Brown
Mario Batali would not approve. He’s all about the pasta, as the video featured in this post so clearly reveals. And I’m fine with that. The handmade pasta he’s known for deserves to be the star of the dish to which it is destined.
But Mr. Batali does not live or work here. His take on the pasta-to-sauce ratio is lost on us heathens who often times order extra sauce on the side. (Gasp!) And I’m fine with that, too, because I’ve tasted a sauce that deserves top billing.
Leonoro’s Spaghetti House has been keeping it real – sauce-wise – since 1915. Theirs is a marinara with body and soul, and the recipe is so top-secret that the servers who’ve worked there for years are even clueless to its ingredient list. (That’s the line I was fed, anyway.)
The menu at Leonoro’s is a simple one as everything is just a vehicle for the sauce. They offer spaghetti, rigatoni and linguine – none of which are handmade. There’s a lasagna on the menu, but it only passes for such because of the utilization of the appropriate noodle. Sure, you’ll find layers and a bit of cheese (not nearly enough ricotta), but no ground beef, spinach or seasonings of any kind. It’s all about the sauce!
And the sauce is quite good. Its flavors are deep tomato red with a hint of smoke and a balanced bitterness that evokes a hearty red wine. It also happens to be completely vegetarian. One can request meatballs on the side, but order them only for the protein boost. Flavor-wise, they’re quite bland. (Have I mentioned this place is all about the sauce?)
If red sauce isn’t your thing, go for the linguine with clam sauce. It’s olive oily and garlicky and completely free of the signature sauce. It would benefit greatly from freshly grated Parmesan cheese, but that’s not an option. Honestly, though, if red sauce isn’t your cup of chianti, I’d avoid Leonoro’s completely. Even their house salad dressing – a cold version of their marinara – is all about the sauce!
Wait a second, I nearly forgot the one thing they serve that’s as good as the sauce: garlic toast. I’m not talking about garlic powder and Italian seasoning sprinkled on Wonder Bread, but rather full-fledged chopped garlic combined with creamy butter and toasted on delicious Italian bread. You know how I like it best? Dipped in the sauce, of course!
IF YOU GO: Leonoro’s Spaghetti House, 1507 Washington Street, East, Charleston, W.Va., (304) 343-1851
November 28th, 2007 at 4:27 pm
Here in Chicago, we are bombarded with Italian-American cuisine up the cannoli! I have an instant revulsion to the ‘noodle swimming in tomatoes’ that many places (including my parents’ kitchen) still serves.
Even an excellent sauce, say filled with truffles, “pro-shoot”, and cream from the golden calf, can be too much of a good thing.
That being said, I don’t know why these Eye-Tai-American places even exist anymore. Prince spaghetti = $1.15. Ragu sauce = $2.00.
November 28th, 2007 at 4:56 pm
I’m with ya, Jeffrey. ‘Noodles swimming in tomatoes’ are not very appetizing. However, this particular sauce is very tasty… much more so than any such bottled variety as Ragu. That’s the only reason why Leonoro’s still exists.
I failed to mention in the post that you can simply purchase the sauce, sans pasta. That way you can control the quality of the pasta and the quantity of the sauce in your own kitchen.
Buon appetito!
November 29th, 2007 at 8:04 am
MMMMM…do I smell garlic bread?
November 29th, 2007 at 9:34 am
Well, I must admit, I’m a sauce girl. In fact, it’s my favorite part of the pasta experience; and Leonoro’s makes a mighty fine sause, indeed. It’s bright and tangy, and the perfect consistency for mopping up with a big ol’ hunk of garlic toast!
November 29th, 2007 at 10:01 am
mo sauce please is how how look at it. I want it to stick to my insides. A pinch of sugar can make a sauce really pop.
Umberto’s in Little Italy (NYC) is the place for sauce lovers.
November 29th, 2007 at 10:34 am
You know, my problem is that they don’t serve beers that would pair well with the sauce. (that one’s for you, Rich)
November 29th, 2007 at 12:37 pm
You’re right, Chris. The beverage offerings are slim. Honestly, I’m surprised they don’t have a drink comprised of their sauce!
And Drew… Leonoro’s sauce would definitely stick to your insides. The sauce has body! Sometimes it comes across as soupy on the plate, but that’s only because the pasta wasn’t drained properly.
November 29th, 2007 at 10:27 pm
Brooke, Yes, ya Gotta Love Da Sauce… But next time treat yourself to the Veal. Ask Albert to bread it for you and he will. Normally he just fries it a little in an egg-wash. As for Parmigiano, well my boyz are all about Pecorino-Romano (I mean the real stuff), for that is where the Leonoros call home in the old country. The house dressing is tomato based, but it does not contain Leonoro’s sauce.
As for beer, well it’s hard to find a good one to go… I think you need a brown ale with a little bit of acidity to hold with the tomato. I am sure you were named after the right beer - Brooklyn Brown Ale….
November 29th, 2007 at 10:43 pm
OOOH… I just caught the comment on the Meatballs… I have to disagree. These are not “Ogida Balls” like so many I have had at other places. The spice and bread that is used is ground into the meat. The balls are pan fried and then out into sauce. Timing is everything here… If you go for dinner, you may be getting that mornings sauce and balls. If you go for lunch, you may get the better leftover sauce/balls that has sat overnight in which the flavors marry.
Also, you should try the lasagne… (no meat, but regionally authentic)
November 30th, 2007 at 9:57 am
Hey Rich! Thanks for the great commentary!
The Brooklyn brewing company is one of my favorites (even though it’s not my namesake), and I agree that the brown ale would be a great complement. Dare to dream…
As for the meatballs, I’ve just found the quality to be too inconsistent. Some days they’re deliciously moist and tender, other days they’re like brown stones. Still, I continue to roll the dice.
I’ve tried the lasagna; actually, I normally order 1/2 lasagna, 1/2 spaghetti. My only beef (pun intended) with the lasagna is that I think it needs more ricotta.
One thing is consistent, though, and that’s da sauce.
December 12th, 2007 at 11:47 am
I am a Manhattanite that loves Italian that lived for a piece on the East End. I still think about Leonardo’s. I dont know if it was because I was poor little teenaged skateboarder back then and everything tasted good or if Leonardo’s truly is special. I think it is the later. That place is classic and Charleston is lucky to have it. It should be put on the national register.
December 19th, 2007 at 2:23 pm
ATP - Thanks for the comment! FYI - the folks at Leonoro’s will ship da sauce, so give ‘em a call!
December 23rd, 2007 at 6:38 pm
I really liked this review. I wish you would do more reviews of Charleston restaurants and less “general interest” or “general food interest” blogging. Just my preference though.
December 24th, 2007 at 12:13 pm
d.o.l. - Thank you for your kind words! I try to mix in food related topics with reviews as there are only so many restaurants in the Charleston area. That being said, I’ll try and up the review quotient for ‘08.
Stay tuned for more Blog Soup!