FINDING A HEALTHY MEDIUM
Monday, September 28th, 2009A few Sundays back, I wrote about the stir created after Glamour magazine featured a picture of a model who was a few pounds heavier than the ones most of us are accustomed to seeing. Glamour’s readers were thrilled by the picture, and the magazine was soon inundated with letters and emails from delighted readers.
And for the most part, the feedback I received about the column was equally enthusiastic. All but one.
“I can tell you that personally, the last thing I want to see when I open a fashion magazine is ‘reality,’” wrote Liza in a comment on my Gazz blog. “If I want to see overweight, common, unfashionable women, I need look no further than any street at any time of day, anywhere in this state.”
Liza wrote that she reads magazines like Vogue, Harpers, and Glamour because she loves style and beauty, as well as the mystique and art of fashion and fashion models. “When it comes to selling magazines, it’s the 5′10″ 110 lb. model that sells them,” says Liza.
The fashion industry has been pushing their skeletal=beauty equation ever since Twiggy in the 60s, and since then, young women have been starving (and up-chucking) themselves to death in the pursuit of meeting those unhealthy standards.
From a financial perspective, I don’t understand the thinking of those in the fashion industry. To me, the reason for using models that are shaped more like average women seems obvious: Women know that what looks good on a pencil isn’t likely to look as good on a highlighter. But if an outfit works on a model who is shaped more like the average woman, then the average woman is more likely to want to purchase that outfit.
But Liza disagreed with that, too. “Designers don’t want heavy women wearing their fashions. That’s why you can’t get Prada in an 18. It’s just the reality of high fashion–the greatest creation in the world is lost on a wide backside, and that’s just a sad fact of life. Besides, designers are all about exclusivity, and given that most American women are overweight, ultra thin is exclusive. Sad reality.”
It hasn’t always been that way, though. In paintings from the 19th century and earlier, beautiful women were full-figured, Rubenesque. Even into the 1950s, celebrities were curvaceous.
To be skinny was seen as unhealthy and therefore dangerous, and to such a degree that thinness was shocking. Since shocking meant getting noticed, advertising gurus took note and made use of it, as did fashion designers. In the mid-1990s, when skinny alone was no longer enough to draw attention, it was taken to the next level with heroin chic–even more severely jutting bones, pale skin, and dark circles under the eyes. A look reflective of drug addiction.
If advertisers and designers are paying attention, perhaps some will be savvy enough to realize that featuring an average-sized woman in ads has become every bit as shocking and attention-getting as Twiggy and those heroin chic chicks once were.
It’s interesting to consider how much of what we like or believe to be attractive and important is shaped by television, movies, and magazines. In the 1950s, Marilyn Monroe-a size 14-was the epitome of sexy. Then along came Twiggy.
In the 1950s, men were predominantly clean-shaven. Mustaches and beards were viewed as an indicator of shiftiness or danger (think of the criminal landlord twirling his handlebar mustache). Then along came Burt Reynolds and Tom Selleck with their manly mustaches, and the public’s perception toward facial hair changed.
Used to be that men who were losing their hair resorted to toupees, comb-overs, or hats, until Yul Brynner and Telly Sevalas came along and demonstrated how good hairless could look.
I can’t help but hope that the days of uber-thin models are nearing an end, that a healthier trend will begin. I doubt Liza would agree.
Though she did have a point.
“There’s a happy medium somewhere between toothpick models and the overweight of this country,” wrote Liza. “But if you need fashion magazines to validate yourself, then you have bigger problems than body image issues. If you accept yourself for what you are, then you shouldn’t care what the magazines say.”



